Ce qui surprend quand on se promène dans Bangalore c’est la juxtaposition de deux mondes. D’un côté une ville moderne en plein boom, la silicone Vallée de l’Inde. De l’autre une ville qui vie selon des pratiques ancestrales. Les temples de la consommation côtoient les temples Hindouiste, les mosquées, les églises. La société de consommation côtoie une société qui recycle tout. Des buffles paissent dans le jardin d’un hôpital. La richesse côtoie la misère.
J’utilise le verbe côtoyer car les deux faces sont imbriquées, il n’y a pas de « ghettos », dans la même rue on trouve les deux faces. Même sur MG Road (Mahatma Gandhi), la rue chic de Bangalore, on trouve cette proximité. C’est cette proximité qui surprend, qui dérange.
En occident nous avons aussi ces deux faces mais nous n’avons plus cette proximité, il y a des frontières naturelles, des sas de transition. Par exemple, dans le 17ème arrondissement il y a d’un côté le 17ème de La Fourche et de l’autre le 17ème du parc Monceau entre la voie de chemin de fer et le quartier bobo des Batignolles. Il y a les grandes villes modernes et un monde rural avec des pratiques très différentes. Il y a Paris et le cantal. En Europe nous avons aussi cette misère, certes en moindre proportion, la différence c’est qu’on essaye de la cacher mais ce ne sont que des caches misère et seuls les SDF nous rappellent à l’ordre. Pour combien de temps encore dans la mesure où les lois, arrêtés se multiplient pour essayer de les cacher eux aussi.
Finalement ce n’est pas tant les buffles, le recyclage, la misère qui surprennent, mais plus le fait qu’ils soient présents, visibles, le fait qu’ils interrogent, qu’ils interpellent notre société moderne. En Europe, la différence fait peur en Inde pas. Je disais qu’il n’y avait pas de ghettos, ce qui est faux car une partie des occidentaux vivants en Inde vivent dans des « Gated Community » qui les mettent à l’abri de leurs peurs. En Europe on oppose les choses, en Inde on les ajoutes. En Europe on dit pile ou face, en Inde les deux côtés de la pièce sont indissociable, en Inde c’est pile et face.
Pour découvrir les différentes facettes de Bangalore :
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